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Via Palazzo di Città is a small street in the historic center of Turin that connects the Municipio, or Palazzo di Città, with Piazza Castello and Palazzo Madama. It was the first street opened after the capital was moved from Chambery; therefore, its creation must be contextualized within the city of that time.

Urban planning of the late 1500s

Since 1563, upon his arrival in Turin, Emanuele Filiberto found the urban structure inadequate for the new role of capital of the duchy. In truth, even the defensive structures were in poor condition and needed to be completely revised.

Emanuele Filiberto, although intent on remedying both problems, had to contend with the high costs of the renovations he desired. He therefore decided to start with the reorganization of the city’s defenses by building the Citadel, the walls, and the bastions.

Palazzo di Città Municipio di Torino At the same time, the old episcopal palace was identified as a suitable place for the duke’s residence. Of course, a renewal and expansion work was necessary to accommodate the entire court, and this further delayed the urban reorganization of the entire city.

It was only with the establishment of Carlo Emanuele I that the expansion of the city began with the opening of Via Nuova (now Via Roma) in 1606 and subsequently Via Palazzo di Città.

Opening of Via Palazzo di Città

Opening of Via Palazzo di Città The renovation of the Palazzo di Città area and the opening of a new street connecting the municipio with Palazzo Madama was probably already in the duke’s mind since the early 1600s. In fact, in 1603, during the construction of the Corpus Domini church, he ordered that a square be created in front of the church.

Palazzo di Città Piazza Palazzo di Città However, work on the new Via Palazzo di Città only began in 1619. The main purpose was to unite two of the most important points of daily life for the people of Turin: the municipio and the square in front of it, where a popular market was held, and the power buildings of Piazza Castello. Perhaps it is for this “practical and popular” use that the buildings around the street were built in a simple and essential style, without significant decorative elements.

In 1659, work began on the construction of the new Municipio by Lanfranchi. This was followed in 1756 by the work of redefining the Piazza di Palazzo di Città by Benedetto Alfieri. The project was completed in 1774 with the construction of the arcades and the renovation of the houses in front of the Corpus Domini church.

Velette

The arrangement desired by Vittorio Amedeo and realized by Benedetto Alfieri has come down to us practically unchanged. Being a direct connection between the Municipio and the Royal Palace, it soon became the ideal place for the passage of processions when the mayors went to greet the sovereign. To protect the guards who stood at the sides of the processions from the rain, stone velette were inserted into the pillars of the arcades at the beginning of the 18th century.

Over time, the frequency of processions gradually decreased until they disappeared altogether. Meanwhile, commercial activities were born in the premises under the arcades, using the velette as a natural extension of their shop. Closed with a wooden and glass structure, the velette became a convenient display space.

Unfortunately, of these characteristic showcases, there is practically no trace left except in some historical photos.

Walking in Via Palazzo di Città

Although the street is short, it is definitely worth a visit due to its historical importance and the various curiosities that can be found there. Already in Piazza Palazzo di Città, in addition to the Municipio, we find the commemorative statue of Count Verde. The sculpture is often mocked by the people of Turin; the Count attacking a man already on the ground and defeated does not seem to be the portrait of a valiant hero.

Also in the square, on the recess of the building on the left that borders the street, on the second floor, you can see a cannonball. The projectile was probably fired in 1799 during the conquest of the city by the Napoleonic army.

Continuing along the street, under the arcades on the left, we find the Casa dalla volta rossa, the first nucleus of Cottolengo’s work. As mentioned earlier, you then reach the small square overlooking the Corpus Domini church, the site of the Eucharistic miracle of 1453.

Finally, on the corner with Piazza Castello, there is the side entrance to the beautiful Church of San Lorenzo, a masterpiece by Guarino Guarini.